September 26, 2017 by Chris Kilkus
Paris Ones to Watch
Marco Colagrossi on Rebooting Emanuel Ungaro
The Italian designer aims step-by-step to nudge the brand in a cooler direction without letting go of its glamazon DNA.
“An exaggerated sense of nature and femininity coming back to life” is how Marco Colagrossi described the direction of his first main women’s ready-to-wear collection for Emanuel Ungaro since succeeding Fausto Puglisi as creative director in March. The role marks the first major appointment for the Italian designer, who has held key roles at Giorgio Armani and Dolce & Gabbana.
While Colagrossi stuck close to the house’s DNA for his well-received cruise collection, from here on — “step by step” — the plan is to make the tone a little less “madame.” As fond as he is of the brand’s maximalist, glamazon heyday — “I’m an Eighties kid, I can remember my mother and her friends wearing tsunamis of ruffles, taffetta, duchesse satin and polka dots” — the designer said he’s aiming for an overall cooler attitude “to rebuild the connection between the ideal Ungaro woman and the woman of today.” (Think less silk duchesse and more techno fabrics like cellophane-like materials and plastics, albeit “handled like silk.”)
Ungaro spring 2018 preview
After exploring the house’s archives, based mainly