September 26, 2017 by Chris Kilkus
Serge Ruffieux on Carven’s New Chapter
PARIS — He wears a necklace full of evil-eye charms, but Serge Ruffieux looked a picture of calm at a preview of his first main collection for Carven since taking over the house’s creative helm in January, which continues the trend for second-in-command designers moving into the spotlight.
To be sure, Ruffieux has earned his stripes working in the wings, with a career that includes more than five years working under Sonia Rykiel — “Sonia and me, it was a love story; it was possibly the experience of my career that touched me the most” — and eight years at Dior, working respectively under John Galliano, Bill Gaytten and Raf Simons, with whom he also had a “real connection.” He was then asked to man the ship as Dior’s co-artistic director with Lucie Meier following Simons’ exit in October 2015.
Ruffieux, who until then had been head designer of Dior’s women’s ready-to-wear and haute couture studios, said his experience under Gaytten — “which was also very rich on a human level for me and my colleagues, because it was such a tough period after the chaos of what happened with Galliano” – had stood him in good stead. “We were under a